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water pump region seep

12/22/2018 11:21
FIRSTLAST
on a 351W Ford repair. Coolant drops, then no heat. Seep is on bottom of front cover, and on top, on block areas below the thermostat neck. Instinct is to remove pump, find if deterioration exists. But I read about aluminum deterioration and seepage from aluminum plate behind water pump. I have all hoses off, ready to break bolts loose on pump in morning. Shroud and fan are off, radiator still in. This would be the time to plumb things back to normal, fill system, positively locate leak under pressure tester. Last time, I could only see it dripping down to bottom of pan, too much in way to pin down source. Suggestions? No play or bind in shaft of pump. Condition on outside nice, coolant color excellent.
12/25/2018 12:24
FIRSTLAST
Not looking so good. Bad corrosion on backing plate of pump and timing chain cover. Seepage was lower bolt, and bottom of this area where corrosion was the worst. Took many hours to get 1 stud out, 2nd stud sheared. Had to warm block to win that 1 extraction, gain 1/4 turn at a time. So keep going, change timing chain cover, I'm guessing.
12/28/2018 11:49
ASHLEY P
The dreaded timing cover bolt/stud syndrome on a Ford....glad you've about whipped the hardest part of the project._____________________________________________________. Good pic. What camera and process for uploading?
12/28/2018 18:21
FIRSTLAST
just my smart phone, simple upload on this revised web design. Going after timing chain cover, further seal the probable bolt leak points. About to remove harmonic balancer. Kinda pain in the you know working on Fords. Need serious bolt removal gear, and safety.
12/29/2018 00:19
ASHLEY P
Hey now, that Ford design is almost a carbon copy of the Pontiac....
12/30/2018 21:20
FIRSTLAST
yeah, my thinking too. It debuted couple years after 389 and variants became dominant in track performance. Its a pretty stout design. Really takes a thrashing if you work your engines. Have no fears hauling big load thousands of miles. Zero oil consumption on this one approaching 200,000. Needed my air compressor fixed on this job, and now likely need to order a better impact. Eyeing a great MAC. The old trusty CP sticks a lot. Costing me days, bummer.
12/31/2018 10:22
ASHLEY P
My favorite air impact is the IR 231C. If operated at about 120 psi it doesn't have quite enough power to twist bolts off, but at about 175 something will give.
01/01/2019 00:13
FIRSTLAST
Had 40s today. No iceing in line or gun. Rain, but everything cooperated, balancer bolt now out.
01/05/2019 10:51
FIRSTLAST
I had some antifreeze behind timing chain cover, solid green, which didn't come out until breaking seal loose on the cover. May have never reached oil pan, which just got fresh oil. I think it was in cooling passage at a low spot.So to test this, crack oil drain plug and see if green water comes out? Would it work?
01/06/2019 17:15
FIRSTLAST
One more shade tree question. What is in this pic? It shows silicone around the end of the crank snout, before the washer and bolt go into the harmonic balancer. It would appear to me the place that needs silicone is the keyway, so do you just smear a bunch of black RTV, then assemble your harmonic balancer bolt?
01/07/2019 12:49
ASHLEY P
The keyway is on potential leak. The other is between the balancer and snout. A large silicone application under the washer stops both.
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