My 67 will crank great when its cool, but when it gets hot it strains. I tried adding a shield and that helped some. Is it the sloenoid that gets overheated or the motor? And if its the solenoid can it be changed?
Had the same issue with my 66 GTO. Pontiac's run hot.
I was told to change my Battery cable's to # 2 wire. Hot & Ground.
Get full voltage and amps when hot. No issues yet. did it last year.
SW TX. it's hot down here.
when you had the starter out did you look at the solenoid contacts?
Yes it could be changed
Thank you, I'm in Western Oregon, its not hot here. I will try that, its not a very old starter.
I had to change the battery cable clamps,couldn't find any spring ring type
Do you have the high torque starter
Heat adds resistance to the circuit. The starter motor is the main concern, not the solenoid. I've had the same symptoms on my car. Once it was the brushes in the starter motor, the other time my battery was borderline. I'd recommend a battery check and a starter amperage draw test.
he said he had a newer starter.
Heat adds resistance to the circuit, that's the purpose for the bigger battery cable wire.
Oh, I agree with you. And I have large cables on my car. I also know that "new" does not necessarily mean "good". It takes a good batter, good cables, and a good starter to properly crank the engine (assuming a "good" engine). (We could go down the initial ignition advance road if the battery checks good and starter amp draw is good.)
Without a doubt, guess you have to start some where.
so I was thinking along with your ignition advance.
what motor do you have and how are you setup.
Thank you very much for the pictures and responses! It helps a great deal. I'm not sure which starter I have, I got it from NAPA years ago when they still sold Gold version. It used to work great hot or cold , even with a few extra degrees of timing. So I think I better look at some bigger cables.
What do you guys use to shield the cable as it goes down to the starter? I have logs and the factory shield but I'm not sure #2 cable will go through.
I got my cable shield from Summit Racing.
they have different sizes. I used 0.500 Dia. , 1/2" id
had to buy more than I needed. looks same as original.
That looks a lot better than I thought it would, I will look into that, thank you. I get cables from a place called Genuinedealz.com you can configure them with whatever ends and colors you need.
Great source if you have a Triumph or a Ducati and you have to replace the shoe string size battery cables.
thanks for the link
clean the ground connectons.
The factory ground points on block have iron against steel. Battery has lead, brass, and /or steel. Each place you have dissimilar materials, you get corrosion. Voltage requires a return path to the battery, via block corroded connections. Amperage is directly reduced by resistance, the wire, the dissimilar connection point, the brushes, and the heated windings from a hot manifold. You gain advantage by a good ground point directly to mount bolt on the starter. Clean with a tap and die any threaded connections, shine spade to block connections with emery cloth, use dielectric grease in the reassembly. Factory may not have grounding to starter, but you can have a custom cable made with through connection at front block point continuing to starter mount bolt.
I chase brake issues in electric brakes, its often the grounds. Once I dedicate a battery 14 or,12 ga wire from neg to the actual brakes, voila, powerful brakes.
Thank you very much for the excellent information. I did find where I am missing a ground strap on the back of the motor. And most likely the ones that are attached are getting pretty corroded. Unfortunately I found a leaky wheel seal, and while i am doing that I may as well do the drums and shoes, and the wheel bearings. Oh well, no shows to drive to .
How about adding a pic of your 67 to the registry.
I'll need to take a decent picture first.
That's nice, add your new pic to the registry just below Q&A.
Fill out your profile and drag and drop your pic.
Try BatteryCablesUSA.com Any length, and gauge. Don't know if they can accommodate Spring-Ring term.